Island Life
by Declan Weir

 

From East to West and back again, last week provided the opportunity to soak up an eclectic balance of culture. Spectacular Japanese drummers and Irish religious pilgrimages might seem like worlds apart, but they could be closer than you think.

The mightily impressive Kodo drummers came from the land of the rising sun to entertain a receptive crowd at Galway Arts Festival; we were drawn by the primal call of the drums, and the warm glow of sunset. The 14-strong troupe laid down a thrilling performance, mixing traditional Japanese rituals and versatile drumming, seamlessly switching from thunderous volume to the deftest of touches, from the huge 1,000lb "o-daiko" to the tiniest of cymbals.

Kodo, formed in 1981, is based on the island of Sado, long known as a haven for exiles as well as its tradition of drumming, dancing and theatre. The members live there communally, whenever they aren't on their unending "One Earth Tour." (Last count - 2,000 performances in 34 countries). Potential drummers undergo a rigorous 2-year apprenticeship during which they must master musical techniques and, more importantly, hone their bodies and spirits. The style they practice, "Taiko", symbolises the rural community, and the furthest distance at which the drum could be heard marked the limits of the village. Kodo's mission is to bring the sound of Taiko from Sado island and make it heard around the globe – to remind us we are all members of a larger community.

Another island, named in honour of a local saint, was to be the centre of community activities near the Connemara village of Carna, later in the week.

Every year, on the 16th July, dozens of boats ferry hundreds of people from Mace pier to Cruach na Cara, on the occasion of Feile Mhic Dara. The early part of the day is set aside for the pilgrimage and mass outside the 7th century church built by St Mac Dara. Not a lot is known about this mysterious figure, but the fishermen around this treacherous coastline still revere him as their patron saint, and dip their sails three times in tribute every time they pass – a custom going back to the 17th century.

Drawing closer to the tiny island - uninhabited save for some sheep and cattle – we could see the church's unique roof stand out against the sky. After the morning's solitary squall passed by, mass was celebrated in Irish, the first language of many of the local people. Mac Dara spent much time on this small, isolated island, absorbing the power of the place, and using his solitary lifestyle to pray and meditate. Today the pilgrimage gives people the chance to retreat and gather their thoughts away from the maelstrom of modern life.

We perceive the rituals of faraway lands as being exotic and fascinating and treat equally fascinating rituals at home as being commonplace. It was interesting, then, to hear, among the distinctive Irish of the area, German and French, and English spoken in Northern Irish and American accents.

Mace pier was transformed by the time we returned. A stage was set for music and stalls had sprung up along the roadside, selling everything from sweets to compact discs. Roundabouts and swingboats noisily provided the backdrop for this less spiritual but equally important aspect of the day, while Galway Hookers and Currachs readied themselves for the regatta.

Just as the Kodo drummers celebrate and keep alive the sounds of their island culture, so do the people of Carna through the veneration of an island-dwelling mystic. Instead of the huge "o-daiko" drum there were fiddles, whistles and bodhráns, but the smiles on the faces were testament to the fact that the vibe was essentially the same. (20/7)

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'99:
Where I Came In... (6 July)
The Potholes of Politics (23 May)
White Cows and Waste Disposal (20 April)
Here Comes the Summer (16 March)
Winds of Change (25 February)
A World of Similarities (28 January)

'98:
Getting Away from it All (Galway to Gambia) (16 December)
The West in Winter
(18 November)
All Different, All Equal (15 October)
The Hurdy-Gurdy Man (14 September)
Dancing at Dunloughan (19 August)
Island Life (20 July)


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