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From East to West and back again, last week provided the
opportunity to soak up an eclectic balance of culture. Spectacular Japanese
drummers and Irish religious pilgrimages might seem like worlds apart,
but they could be closer than you think.
The mightily impressive Kodo
drummers came from the land of the rising sun to entertain a receptive
crowd at Galway Arts Festival;
we were drawn by the primal call of the drums, and the warm glow of sunset.
The 14-strong troupe laid down a thrilling performance, mixing traditional
Japanese rituals and versatile drumming, seamlessly switching from thunderous
volume to the deftest of touches, from the huge 1,000lb "o-daiko" to the
tiniest of cymbals.
Kodo, formed in 1981, is based on the island of Sado, long known as a
haven for exiles as well as its tradition of drumming, dancing and theatre.
The members live there communally, whenever they aren't on their unending
"One Earth Tour." (Last count - 2,000 performances in 34 countries). Potential
drummers undergo a rigorous 2-year apprenticeship during which they must
master musical techniques and, more importantly, hone their bodies and
spirits. The style they practice, "Taiko", symbolises the rural
community, and the furthest distance at which the drum could be heard
marked the limits of the village. Kodo's mission is to bring the sound
of Taiko from Sado island and make it heard around the globe – to remind
us we are all members of a larger community.
Another island, named in honour of a local saint, was to be the centre
of community activities near the Connemara village of Carna, later in
the week.
Every year, on the 16th July, dozens of boats ferry hundreds of people
from Mace pier to Cruach na Cara, on the occasion of Feile
Mhic Dara. The early part of the day is set aside for the pilgrimage
and mass outside the 7th
century church built by St Mac Dara. Not a lot is known about this
mysterious figure, but the fishermen around this treacherous coastline
still revere him as their patron saint, and dip their sails three times
in tribute every time they pass – a custom going back to the 17th century.
Drawing closer to the tiny island - uninhabited save for some sheep and
cattle – we could see the church's unique roof stand out against the sky.
After the morning's solitary squall passed by, mass was celebrated in
Irish, the first language of many of the local people. Mac Dara spent
much time on this small, isolated island, absorbing the power of the place,
and using his solitary lifestyle to pray and meditate. Today the pilgrimage
gives people the chance to retreat and gather their thoughts away from
the maelstrom of modern life.
We perceive the rituals of faraway lands as being exotic and fascinating
and treat equally fascinating rituals at home as being commonplace. It
was interesting, then, to hear, among the distinctive Irish of the area,
German and French, and English spoken in Northern Irish and American accents.
Mace pier was transformed by the time we returned. A stage was set for
music and stalls had sprung up along the roadside, selling everything
from sweets to compact discs. Roundabouts and swingboats noisily provided
the backdrop for this less spiritual but equally important aspect of the
day, while Galway Hookers and Currachs readied themselves for the regatta.
Just as the Kodo drummers celebrate and keep alive the sounds of their
island culture, so do the people of Carna through the veneration of an
island-dwelling mystic. Instead of the huge "o-daiko" drum there were
fiddles, whistles and bodhráns, but the smiles on the faces were
testament to the fact that the vibe was essentially the same. (20/7)
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