January 1998

From Inle Lake to Bagan travellers along our journey were impressed by the fact that none of the buses we'd used had broken down. We were becoming quite proud of this claim until we got stuck in the middle of mountainous terrain along the Bagan-Inle Lake stretch. Seconds seemed like a lifetime of minutes as the poor hassled driver made attempt after attempt to get the old contraption into action. Farmers passing in their horse and carts said their hellos as the natives became restless and squatted outside in the afternoon heat smoking and chatting amongst themselves.

I grabbed my fleece and a book and headed for the nearest tree...settling myself down for a nap seemed like such an inviting idea. Before I could make myself comfortable , we were ordered back on the bus and were off. The Driver was all smiles...proud of his mechanical expertise. We arrived late in Bagan...yes, you've guessed it! The bus broke down again and again and yes...I think again. We were needless to say, terribly tired and were not in any mood for cheap hotel searches!! We were also fed up with other travellers complaining because they had to pay 300 kyat more than someone else! Hello?? 300 kyat is about $1.00. The silliness was beginning to irritate the hell out of both of us. On the grand scale of things...what does it matter if you are overcharged one measly dollar?????Will it really affect your holiday that much?

Anyway, we settled ourselves into a very friendly establishment and spent the evening organising our following day's excursion around the old city of Bagan. Bagan, they say, is one of the great wonders of Asia...comparable with the world famous temples of Angkor in Cambodia. A deserted City of amazing temples and pagodas, we decided on our first day to take a horse and cart and visit the main sites. It would be almost impossible to get to each and every one of them........there are thousands.

Our Guide was a young entertaining chap and we had many a laugh trying to suss out his perspective on women, relationships and life. The temples were fascinating but one has to be prepared for the onslaught of traders trying to lure you into buying their mostly inferior lacquerware. The best bet is to go to the actual workshops scattered around Bagan. Bargain like crazy although don't do a real tight ass on it!! The locals will be only too happy to bargain with you. They are very aware of the fact that the prices are inflated. They are used to tour groups paying the set price...bargaining with them will give them a laugh and something to talk about with their friends...'This mad foreigner came in today........' .

We caught the sunset on top of one of the many temples and ended our day with a dinner at a local restaurant and later...a cup of tea and a game of cards in the hotel......Don't mock! Playing cards are your lifeline when on the road!!!!!

The following day, we took off on bikes and explored another section of the city. As we said our good-byes to the wonderful staff at the hotel, Our nightbus back to Yangon was beeping us into a frenzy. Before we knew where we were.....we were back on the Biman Bangladesh flight to Bangkok with nothing but memories and a Burmese basket full of presents.

Our trip will have to be repeated...at another period of our lives...at another period in Myanmar's political life.....who knows what will come of Myanmar. The tense atmosphere continues to haunt.....the fact that the University was closed down for a number of months in Yangon can only make you question the regime's policies...their fears.....their fears of democracy activists on the Uni campus. We tried to visit the 'famous lady' but were unable to find a taxi driver willing to talk about her....never mind actually bring us to her living quarters. Time as they say.....will tell.

Take care,
Ita